2012年5月1日星期二

Cities on Your Sleeve

>> A reader asked if I was going to blog about the Royal College of Art In Progress show where students from fashion design (menswear and womenswear), textiles, silversmithing, metalwork and jewellery show exactly that... their work In Progress, showing varying stages of research and product.  I was.  Then I did a fatal Trash action on my computer which erased a chunk of ToBeBlogged images, including the lot of photos I took at the In Progress show.  I failed.  No,Mad Men, not a simple FAIL.  Just a very succinct and direct - I failed.

The one saving grace is that one particular student who was forthcoming enough to send me her work, was one of the ones who I had noted down when I was at the show.  Lily Kamper is studying textiles and here she presents her in progress work of experimenting with mixed media cityscapes that could be applied to garments or accessories in different ways.

"My work was inspired by the idea of creating architectural 'dream scapes' that you could wear on the body, through combining a variety of materials such as resin,cheap dr dre beats headphones, screws, glass, wood and metal - hard materials combined with soft such as embroidery and fringing.  i was initially inspired by a place called 'Container City' in Trinity Buoy Wharf in London, taking the idea of repetition, symmetry, structure and a corrugated texture andcombining  it with contrasting qualities such as ice and smoke to create imagined miniature landscapes that represent future cities. The work displayed on the shelf are all individual pieces, so the idea is that different combinations can be put together to create different cities, where they can grow and evolve and also be destructed in the same way. "

I like how there are so many elements to take in within one bit of 'dream scape' and that there is this emphasis between soft and hard materials - perhaps the soft needs to be turned up a notch to visualise these being worked into clothes but I'm sensing Kamper already has tricks up her sleeve to make that progression.

It's worth bearing in mind that despite the fact that these are in progress pieces that will develop, evolve and expand into clothes that would integrate with these hard/soft cityscapes, it's impressive to see that they already look like finished products in themselves, as pieces of jewellery that you could wear straight away.  Still,soccer team jerseys, the next exciting level of course is to apply these in perhaps more maneagable sizes to pieces of clothing or worked into a handbag or even a shoe and it will certainy be intriguing to see how Kamper makes the transition in her work from admirable objects to functional design. 

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Defiant Florals

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>> If flowers could speak, some of the ones from the past, current and forthcoming seasons' collections are saying "I don't want to be described as ditzy.  I'm not going to cower into a mass of pattern and print where you can't tell one flower from the other.  My petals will be defianty bold and my colours are anything but wishy washy so much so that my exact species can be identified without having to resort to calling us a generic 'floral' pattern.  If I along with other flowers repeat myself then so be it because that way you'll have more of a chance of remembering the exacting pattern that almost certainly evokes William Morris.  Even if I along with my peers, collectively resemble wallpaper, we're not the sort to grace wallflowers that blend into the background."

These bold blooms are growing and intertwining with help of Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2011-12,team soccer jerseys, Stella McCartney Resort 2011 (a lot of it now on MyTheresa), my Manoush coat and Crockett & Jones slippers, the new selection of Liberty fabrics,Nike Air Max 90 Womens, Undercover's A/W 00-01 pieces at the Barbican and of course William Morris' Thames-inspired prints. 

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2012年4月30日星期一

Treasure Trail Lost and Found

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>> Ok so I blew my own orienteering trumpet a bit and now I'm eating my words together with a mouthful of Belgian waffle and a slick of sticky chocolate sauce.  In fact, Steve and I came LAST in the treasure hunt, either faffing around for too long at each location, being completely distracted or just not keeping check of time.  Whatever the reason, together with Miss Glitzy (sorry for dragging you down into the depths of loser-dom),Gucci Cosmetic Case, we got the least amount of subsequent spending money but hey at least I got this lousy collage out of it eh?

I'll be writing up some other tidbits of Antwerp shopper's delight but our designated treasure hunt included the following...
Theo Eyewear - Their in-house label of glasses was all laser-cuts, interesting shapes and MULTITUDE of colours. Must.Have.Metal.Guard.Visor.Glasses.
In Fine - A parfumerie where err...budding Jean-Baptiste Grenouille-esque characters would have a ball.
Delvaux - Glad that Veronique Braquinho has taken on the creative directorship and I'll be popping into the Delvaux exhibition at MOMU tomorrow.
Verso - Labels, labels, labels... dome dome dome.
Louis,coach sandals, Lombardenstraat 2 - The list of labels can be found in the collage below but they were the first to start stocking the Antwerp Six.
A Boon, Leopoldplaats 12 - I've found out that I'm a size 6 and a half in gloves and that I have a really strong grip.
Fish and Chips - I remember writing about this store when I first waxed lyrical about Antwerp on the blog but me thinks my tastes have somewhat changed since then.
Labels Inc - Still one of my first stops in Antwerp though it does depend on the day what's there... I spied the Miu Miu strappy pumps but sadly they were a size too big.
Elsa - There was a marbled patent effect on a pair of round toed shoes that I loved.

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2012年4月29日星期日

Sweet Mieke

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>> I know this is completely unrelated and chronologically confusing given that I'm in Hong Kong and these pictures were taken a few months back in Antwerp but they've been sitting on my memory card for a while and are frankly pissing me off so I'm offloading them even if they aren't necessarily fashion-related.  This is proof though that I do read all comments and emails and whilst I can't reply to each one, I'm heeding your words and lodging them in my brain.  A reader recommended Mieke Willems in Antwerp when I said I was going and despite the fact that I've rarely mentioned my taste in gifts, interiors, nick-nacks etc etc, she somehow got it spot on that I'd love Mielke...

Mieke Willems sells stationery, handmade wares,soccer jerseys cheap, all things slightly naive (speaking of which, I think Tommy of Notes by Naive would LOVE this store...) and for want of a better word,dr dre monster beats headphones, charming,USA Soccer Jersey, all of which is supported by an equally 'charming' (why is this word so defunct and parochial sounding?) e-store and blog.  I spent an overabundance of time in this store and kind of went off the 'fashion' track we were supposed to be on when we were in Antwerp.  Escape is sweet when cardboard, cut-outs and freshly sharpened pencils are involved. 

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2012年4月28日星期六

Roundup Roundup ye Swedes

No, I'm not rounding up a herd of root vegetables.  I am in fact completing my much-belated Stockholm fashion week coverage which has so far consisted of err...me in front of a bright yellow snow plough and also banging on about the greatness that is Ann Sofie-Back.  All very well but not at all comprehensive in the scheme of things.  Actually, this isn't very comprehensive either but I can only understand things in the language of 'deets', the things that make me whip out my battered camera (I have two plasters strapped across my ickle Canon... it's been through casualty) and take awful blurry snaps which I'll post despite their evident crapness.  So here goes a mammoth post which I'll probably have to shorten and do that "Click here for more..." trick just because after a while this might seem a bit looooooong winded...which of course, it is.

>> Cheap Monday sweaters... like I said, for reliving my Sweater Shop days...

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>> Eva i Walla's show was a Swedish folkloric riot but these cut-out long johns caught my eye because they kind of remind me of this ensemble I saw in Cutie magazine

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>> Woah... scarily weird that sock suspenders were all over the shop at Dr. Denim's show...

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>> Doh!  I stupidly ate a big breakfast before the Hope show and basically left this intact...

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I a) loved the influence of Hope's show... Ingmar Bergman's The Seventh Seal and b) loved that they used sheepskin collars in an oversized way.  The netting skirt on the right is curiously part of a collaboration between Nina Persson (The Cardigans) and Hope... she's also performing at Peter Jensen's presentation in New York so me thinks she's getting into quite a few fashion pies. 

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Another Bergman reference with this print...

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>> Diana Orving did a great monchromatic print but even better was the cut-outs that looked very delicate with the 'string' caging...

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>> Odeur had a lot up its 'sleeve'...

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>> These are purely showshoes but I loved that Helena Qvist put a great deal of effort into making them all look different whilst still being cohesive...

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>> I stupidly didn't know a thing about denim brand The Local Firm... turns out that beyond denim, they also do a great panelled/patchwork legging...

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This reminds me of an old A.F. Vandevorst design, pitting frumpy against sexy...

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>> Minimarket's show was so predictably 'me' that Mr Newton next to me commented that I should be wearing a lot of of this...pastels,cheap monster beats headphones, check, wedges, check, pattern clashing, check, face-paint...maybe not given that anything remotely clown-like is just not right in my book.

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>> I hearted Carin Wester a lot considering how minimal and pared down it was.  Somehow the judgement of fabrics and textures combined with a refreshing amount of long and flowing lengths worked a treat on me.

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The jumper on the right is pretty much what I should be living in all throughout the coming New York fashion week (I leave tomorrow...) but alas, supposed rules dictate that more than one outfit is required...pah...

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Managed to snap a close-up of this monochrome print that's abstracted from nude figures and inspired by Man Ray photographs...

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>> The other half has already expressed his love for the aviator jacket but since I bought that vintage aviator cap, the hunt for the perfect shearling aviator jacket has also been on the go to no avail.  These are probably out of my reach by Acne has pretty much hit the spot with these jackets from their pre-collection...

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They call this their take on the 'Hawaiian' shirt which clearly it isn't.... it's just a very pretty floral print... no shame in that at all...

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More wedge options that may replace all memories of the Atacoma... or not?

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(All backstage photography in Stockholm taken by Patrick Lindblom for Dazed Digital)

This isn't Stockholm related but I am semi-gutted I missed the Acne mainline womenswear show in London that took place the day before the Stockholm presentation... I'm basically in awe of how many bloody textures that they've managed to cram into one collection, shiny metallic faces included. 

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(Photography by Morgan O'Donovan for Dazed Digital)

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